Indigofera chalara Craib
Indigofera cooperi Craib
Indigofera faberii Craib
Indigofera ichangensis Craib
Hedysarum incarnatum Willd.
Indigofera incarnata (Willd.) Nakai
Indigofera decora is a deciduous shrub growing from 40 - 200cm tall[
The plant is harvested from the wild for local use as a food and a medicine. It is often grown as an ornamental.
E. Asia - southern and eastern China, central and southern Japan.
River banks and old stone walls[
]. Near streams, valleys, woodlands, scrub, trailsides; at elevations from 200 - 1,800 metres[
|Cultivation Status||Ornamental, Wild
Indigofera decora is somewhat cold-hardy, the rootstock tolerating temperatures down to around -10°c when dormant[
]. The top-growth is not so hardy however, the stems are often cut back by cold weather, though new shoots are generally produced from the rootstock in spring and these can flower in late summer of the same year[
Requires a light or medium well-drained soil and a warm sunny position[
]. Succeeds on chalk[
]. Prefers growing in areas with warm summers[
A very ornamental plant[
], it is closely related to Indigofera fortunei[
The flowers, which are borne over a period of about 20 weeks, have a vanilla scent[
Plants in this genus are notably resistant to honey fungus[
This species has a symbiotic relationship with certain soil bacteria, these bacteria form nodules on the roots and fix atmospheric nitrogen. Some of this nitrogen is utilized by the growing plant but some can also be used by other plants growing nearby[
Seed - cooked[
]. It can also be dried and ground into a powder then mixed with wheat flour or other cereals when making bread, cakes etc[
A broth made from the leafy shoots is used in the treatment of cough, dyspepsia, haemorrhage and poisoning[
Seed - it has a hard seedcoat and may benefit from scarification before sowing in order to speed up and improve germination. This can usually be done by pouring a small amount of nearly boiling water on the seeds (being careful not to cook them!) and then soaking them for 12 - 24 hours in warm water. By this time they should have imbibed moisture and swollen - if they have not, then carefully make a nick in the seedcoat (being careful not to damage the embryo) and soak for a further 12 hours before sowing.. Sow late winter in a warm greenhouse. The germination can be variable. Prick out the seedlings when large enough to handle and overwinter the young plants in a greenhouse for the first winter, planting out in late spring or early summer after the last expected frosts[
Cuttings of half-ripe wood, 5 - 8cm with a heel if possible, mid summer in individual pots in a frame. Good percentage[
]. Overwinter the young plants in a greenhouse for the first winter and plant out in late spring or early summer[
Root cuttings 3cm long in December. Good percentage[
Suckers. Remove them in the dormant season, preferably towards the end of winter, and plant out into their permanent positions.